Precision | Performance | Passion

Delivery available throughout australia

Shopping Cart (0)

Close

No products in the cart.

  • Home
  • Archives for SCDT

Author Archives: SCDT

Build Ford Ranger: Tuning & Performance Upgrades (PX1–PX3, Next-Gen, Raptor, V6)

Post by: January 18, 20260 Comments, , , , , , , , ,

Build a Ford Ranger That Actually Pulls: Tuning & Performance Upgrades (PX1–PX3, Next-Gen, Raptor, V6)

If you’re trying to build a Ford Ranger for towing, touring, or proper daily drivability, don’t start with shiny parts. Start with the right tune, then fix the heat, then upgrade airflow and hardware in the right order. This guide lays out proven upgrade paths for Ford Ranger tuning and the best Ford Ranger performance upgrades that actually deliver.

Jump to:Ranger models & engines • Stage 1/2/3 build paths • ECU/TCU tuning • Supporting mods • Towing build checklist • Shop Ranger upgrades • FAQ

Ford Ranger engines & platforms (so you buy the right upgrades)

Most generic “Ranger upgrades” lists are messy because they ignore model differences. Here’s the practical breakdown for Ford Ranger ECU tuning and compatible performance parts.

PX1 / PX2 / PX3 (2011–2021)

  • 2.2L: responds well to tuning and efficiency upgrades (intercooler and boost plumbing).
  • 3.2L five-cylinder: strong towing platform when tuned properly with supporting cooling.
  • PX3 2.0L Bi-Turbo (10-speed): big drivability gains with ECU strategy + heat control.

Next-Gen Ranger / Everest / Amarok platform (2022+)

  • 2.0L Bi-Turbo (10-speed): tune + cooling + sensible airflow upgrades = the sweet spot.
  • 3.0L V6 Turbo Diesel (10-speed): loves temperature control and clean torque delivery.

Browse Ranger-compatible parts fast: PX2 • PX3 • Next-Gen (RA) • Shop all products

Stage build paths: the fastest way to build a Ford Ranger properly

The cleanest way to build a Ranger is to match upgrades to a goal. Below are proven upgrade paths that work for towing, touring, off-road drivability, and daily performance.

Stage 1: The “should’ve been factory” build (best bang-for-buck)

  • ECU tuning / dyno tuning: safer torque delivery, improved throttle response, better real-world drivability.
  • Health check: boost leaks, intake restrictions, fuel filter condition, sensor integrity.
  • (Auto) gearbox strategy: where supported, shift logic matters for towing and hills.

Start here: ECU Dyno Tuning • Talk to us about your Ranger build

Stage 2: The “tows like a bigger engine” build

  • Intercooler upgrade: lower intake temps under load = more consistent power and safer towing.
  • Catch can / air-oil separator: reduce oil vapour into the intake, keep things cleaner long-term.
  • Boost plumbing: hoses and clamps that don’t balloon or leak under load.

Stage 3: The “hardware to match the tune” build

  • Exhaust flow improvements: keep it legal and sensible; focus on reducing restriction where compliant.
  • Turbo upgrade: only when cooling, fueling, and mapping strategy are ready.
  • Data-backed setup: don’t chase peak numbers; chase controlled torque and repeatable performance.

Ford Ranger tuning: what a proper ECU tune actually changes

A real Ford Ranger tune isn’t a generic “more boost” file. Done properly, tuning is about how torque is delivered, how boost is controlled, how smoke is managed, and how the vehicle behaves under load.

What you feel after a correct Ford Ranger ECU tune

  • Strong mid-range torque (the part you actually use when towing and overtaking).
  • Sharper throttle response without being annoying in traffic.
  • Less gear hunting because the engine doesn’t fall on its face between shifts.
  • More consistent performance when it’s hot or loaded up.

If you’re building for towing, read this: Towing with a Tuned Diesel — What Changes, What to Watch

Want a remote option (when suitable)? Alientech Powergate ECU Tuning Device (tuning file included)

Supporting mods that actually matter (and why they work)

1) Intercooler upgrade: protect power when towing and touring

One of the most effective Ford Ranger performance upgrades is an intercooler upgrade. Why? Because heat kills consistency. When intake temps climb, performance drops and stress goes up. A quality intercooler helps your Ranger hold power longer, especially on hills, towing, or in QLD heat.

Process West front mount intercooler kit for Ford Ranger and Mazda BT-50 performance and towing
Intercooler upgrade (Process West): keeps intake temps down so your Ranger holds power when towing, touring, or driving in heat.

Shop:Process West Front Mount Intercooler Kit (Ranger/BT-50)

2) Catch can / air-oil separator: keep the intake cleaner

Modern turbo diesels recirculate crankcase vapours. Over time, oil mist can contaminate intake piping and sensors. A quality catch can or air-oil separator helps reduce that oil vapour, keeping things cleaner and more consistent long-term.

SEPR8R air oil separator catch can for Ford Ranger PX and Mazda BT-50 to reduce oil vapour in intake
Catch can / air-oil separator (SEPR8R): reduces oil vapour entering the intake, helping keep sensors and charge piping cleaner long-term.

Shop:SEPR8R Air-Oil Separator (Ranger PX / BT-50)

3) Turbo upgrades: only when your setup is ready

A turbo upgrade can be a weapon, but only if the rest of the build supports it. If you haven’t sorted cooling, intake temps, boost control, and tuning strategy, a turbo upgrade is usually money spent in the wrong order. Do it when you’ve outgrown Stage 1–2 and you want a setup that stays controlled, repeatable, and safe.

GCG TDX RHV4 VJ38 turbo upgrade for Ford Ranger performance build and supporting tuned setup
Turbo upgrade (GCG TDX RHV4 VJ38): for builds that have outgrown Stage 1–2. Do this after cooling and tuning strategy are sorted.

Shop:GCG TDX RHV4 VJ38 Turbo Upgrade

What to ignore (most of the time)

  • Random “stage” claims with no data, no strategy, and no supporting mods.
  • Parts-first builds that skip tuning and heat control (they often drive worse).
  • Illegal emissions tampering (not worth the legal, insurance, and resale pain).

Build Ford Ranger for towing: the checklist most people learn the hard way

If your Ranger tows, this is your priority order. This is where Ranger builds succeed or fall apart.

  • ECU tune for towing: torque delivery + smoke control + safer heat management.
  • Intercooler upgrade: stabilize intake temps on long pulls.
  • Transmission strategy and temperature control: towing = heat, especially in 10-speeds.
  • Boost leak check: hoses, clamps, and joins (tiny leaks = big heat).
  • Service discipline: correct oil spec, fuel filter intervals, proper diagnostics when something feels “off”.

Want help planning the build? Start here: Contact SC Diesel Tuning

External resources (worth reading)

FAQ: Ford Ranger tuning & performance upgrades

Is it worth tuning a Ford Ranger?

If you want better torque delivery, safer overtakes, and improved towing drivability, yes. A proper Ford Ranger ECU tune is usually the best first step because it changes how the whole package behaves under load.

Do I need an intercooler upgrade?

If you tow, tour, or drive in heat, an intercooler upgrade is one of the smartest supporting mods because it helps reduce intake temps and maintain consistent performance under load.

Will tuning hurt reliability?

Poor tuning and neglected maintenance hurts reliability. A sensible calibration with realistic targets and the right supporting mods is designed for real-world load management.

What about warranty and insurance?

Always disclose modifications to your insurer. If you’re unsure, ask before you build. Our terms: SC Diesel Tuning Terms & Conditions

Want your build mapped out properly?Talk to us here.

Read More

How to Disable Auto Start/Stop — Next-Gen Ford Ranger & VW Amarok

Post by: January 5, 20260 Comments, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

How to Disable Auto Start/Stop (2023+ VW Amarok & Next-Gen Ford Ranger)

If you’re over the engine cutting out at lights, this guide shows the module configuration changes used to disable the
Auto Start/Stop function on the 2023+ VW Amarok and 2023+ Ford Ranger (Next-Gen).

Important (read this first)

  • This procedure writes changes to multiple modules. If you get it wrong, you can trigger faults or module issues.
  • Use stable voltage support (battery charger/maintainer). Low voltage is how modules get corrupted.
  • If you’re not confident, book in and we’ll handle it properly.

Software & tools you need (use the correct one)

  • Software: FORScan — https://forscan.org/home.html
  • Ford Ranger (2023+): vLinker Cable (FORScan compatible)
  • VW Amarok (2023+): OBDLink LX Bluetooth 3.0 OBD2 Adapter (Android only)
  • Must-have: battery charger/maintainer during programming

Step-by-step (1, 2, 3)

  1. Connect, scan, and confirm modules are available

    Plug in the correct adapter for your vehicle, turn ignition ON (engine OFF), connect in FORScan, and let it build the vehicle profile.
    Before changing anything, confirm the required modules appear in the list.

    FORScan module list showing available control modules after scanning the vehicle (Amarok/Ranger platform).
    Figure 1: Confirm all modules load before changing anything.
  2. Disable Start/Stop in BdyCM (Body Control Module)

    These are the key changes that disable Start/Stop logic and adjust battery strategy.

    1. Select BdyCM and enter configuration.
    2. Set BMW/Start Stop to Disable.
    3. Change BMW Config to PWM.
    4. Change Battery Target to 95%.
    5. Write changes and confirm.
    BdyCM (Body Control Module) selected in FORScan to access Start/Stop-related settings.
    Figure 2: Open BdyCM to access Start/Stop-related settings.
    BdyCM configuration showing BMW/Start Stop set to Disabled.
    Figure 3: Set BMW/Start Stop to Disabled.
    BdyCM configuration showing BMW Config changed to PWM.
    Figure 4: Change BMW Config to PWM.
    BdyCM configuration showing Battery Target increased to 95 percent.
    Figure 5: Increase Battery Target to 95%.
    FORScan write confirmation window showing pending BdyCM configuration changes before applying.
    Figure 6: Confirm the changes, then write to BdyCM.
  3. Disable Start/Stop strategy in HVAC

    This step disables Start/Stop strategy inside the HVAC module so the system doesn’t try to influence Start/Stop behaviour.

    1. Open HVAC configuration.
    2. Set Start Stop Strategy to Disabled.
    3. Write changes and confirm.
    HVAC module configuration showing Start Stop Strategy changed to Disabled.
    Figure 7: Disable Start/Stop strategy in the HVAC module.
    FORScan confirmation/write prompt for HVAC Start Stop Strategy change.
    Figure 8: Confirm and write HVAC changes.

Optional cleanup (recommended)

Some vehicles will still show Start/Stop options or prompts in the cluster or infotainment even after it’s disabled.
These steps clean that up.

IPC (Instrument Cluster)

  1. Open IPC configuration.
  2. Set Auto Start Stop Enable to Disable.
  3. Write the change.
IPC (instrument cluster) configuration showing Auto Start Stop Enable set to Disabled.
Figure 9: Disable Start/Stop prompts/indicator in the instrument cluster (IPC).

APIM (Infotainment / SYNC)

  1. Open APIM configuration.
  2. Set Start Stop Option Enable to Disable.
  3. Write the change.
APIM (infotainment) configuration showing Start Stop Option Enable set to Disabled.
Figure 10: Remove the Start/Stop option from infotainment (APIM), if present.

Final check

  • Cycle ignition OFF → wait 30–60 seconds → ignition ON.
  • Start the vehicle and confirm Start/Stop no longer activates.
  • If you have warnings, stop and restore original values.
Final confirmation screen after Start/Stop-related module changes have been applied.
Figure 11: Example final confirmation after changes.

Want us to do it for you?

If you’d rather not touch module coding, book in with SC Diesel Tuning. We’ll disable Start/Stop properly with voltage support,
confirm module writes, and check for faults.

Sunshine Coast Diesel Tuning
6/3 Commerce Ave, Warana QLD
Call: 0423 108 474

Read More

Towing with a Tuned Diesel — What Changes, What to Watch

Post by: January 3, 20260 Comments, , , , , , ,

Towing with a Tuned Diesel — What Changes, What to Watch

A well-built diesel towing tune can make a heavy caravan or trailer feel dramatically easier to manage. You get more usable torque, cleaner throttle control, and better drivability on hills. But towing is also the exact place where you want things done properly: safe torque delivery, sensible temperatures, and a setup that protects your engine and transmission.

If your goal is a reliable, strong towing tune for your diesel 4×4, this guide breaks down what changes after tuning, what to monitor (coolant, transmission temp, EGT), and which supporting upgrades actually matter — including transmission cooler kits and catch cans.

If you want us to recommend the right setup, head here: send your rego + towing weight + mods.

What changes after ECU tuning (when it’s done right)

A proper ECU tune for towing isn’t about chasing a hero dyno number. It’s about improving control and keeping everything stable under load. Towing loads the engine for long periods — especially into headwinds, on long climbs, or at highway speeds — so the tune needs to be built for sustained work.

1) Stronger mid-range torque (the “towing zone”)

Most towing happens in the mid-range. A towing-focused calibration improves usable torque where you actually drive: pulling away with a trailer, holding speed on hills, and overtaking without constant downshifts.

2) Better throttle control (less surge, smoother response)

Tuning can improve throttle mapping so the vehicle feels more predictable when you’re feathering the pedal through corners, roundabouts, or uneven terrain while towing. That “on/off” feeling is what makes towing fatiguing.

3) Less gear hunting (when the torque model is right)

When the tune is designed for towing, it can help the vehicle hold the right gear more easily because the engine produces cleaner, more consistent torque. That said, if the transmission strategy is the real problem, TCU tuning for towing may be the missing piece (more on that below).

4) More control on hills

The best towing tunes feel calm on climbs. Instead of constant hunting and heat build-up, the vehicle holds gears more confidently, pulls smoothly, and stays predictable.

What to watch when towing (the stuff that saves gearboxes)

Towing performance is great — until temperatures and shift quality get ignored. If you tow regularly, you should treat monitoring as non-negotiable.

  • Coolant temperature: If it climbs and stays up, you’re working the cooling system hard. Back off early, not late.
  • Transmission temperature (best if you can read it): Heat is what kills auto transmissions. High temps under load = shortened fluid life, poor shifts, and potential limp modes.
  • EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature): If you have a gauge, it’s one of the best indicators of sustained engine stress when towing and climbing.
  • Boost leaks / odd noises under load: Hissing, surging, inconsistent boost, or “new” noises often show up while towing first.

If you’re unsure whether your vehicle is running safely under load, start with our ECU Dyno Tuning process and we’ll map the setup to how you actually tow.

Upgrades that make towing safer (and why)

If you’re serious about towing reliability, tuning is only one part of the package. The right supporting mods reduce heat, protect components, and keep performance consistent.

Transmission cooler kits (the #1 towing protection mod)

A transmission cooler kit helps keep transmission fluid temperatures under control when towing — especially on long climbs, sand, stop-start traffic, or hot summer highway runs. Cooler fluid means:

  • more stable shifting under load
  • less torque-converter heat build-up
  • better protection for clutches and valve bodies
  • longer transmission fluid life

Browse towing-focused options here: Heavy Duty Transmission Cooler kits and Towing upgrades.

Popular examples: Ford Ranger PX 3.2 Transcooler Kit | Ranger/Everest/Amarok 3.0 V6 Transcooler Kit

Catch cans (cleaner intake, more consistent towing performance)

A diesel catch can helps reduce oil vapour and blow-by contamination entering the intake system. Why that matters for towing: sustained load = sustained heat and airflow demand. A cleaner intake tract supports more consistent airflow and reduces the long-term carbon and sludge build-up that can hurt efficiency and drivability.

  • reduces oil mist entering the intercooler and intake
  • helps keep intake systems cleaner over time
  • supports consistency for touring and heavy towing setups

Browse options here: Catch Can Kits. Example for late-model 3.0 platforms: Ranger/Everest/Amarok 3.0 Catch Can.

Intercooler and intake efficiency (towing consistency)

Towing can expose heat soak fast. When intake temps rise, power can fall and the vehicle can feel lazy. Improving charge-air cooling and reducing restrictions can help maintain consistent performance on long pulls.

If you want to browse parts aimed at towing reliability, start here: towing upgrades.

Driving tips for towing a tuned diesel

  • Don’t lug it: If you’re in too high a gear at low RPM, EGT and load can climb quickly. Drop a gear early.
  • Use sport/manual mode when it hunts: Gear hunting generates heat. Lock the gear that holds cleanly.
  • Keep airflow up on long climbs: If temps are rising, back off slightly and maintain steady airflow rather than forcing it.
  • Watch the wind and road grade: Headwinds can load the engine like an extra ton. Drive to conditions, not ego.
  • Service intervals matter more: Towing is “severe use.” Fluids and filters pay you back in reliability.

When to consider TCU tuning for towing

If your transmission is hunting, flaring, downshifting constantly, or just feels confused under load, TCU tuning (where supported) can make towing feel far more controlled. A good TCU calibration can improve shift logic, torque management, and overall gearbox behaviour so it holds gears more sensibly and drives cooler.

The simple rule: if the engine feels capable but the gearbox feels messy, it’s time to talk TCU strategy. Send your details and we’ll tell you what’s possible for your platform: rego + towing weight + mods.

Recommended towing setup checklist (fast wins)

  • Diesel towing tune built for your towing weight and driving style
  • Transmission cooler kit if you tow regularly or in heat/hills/sand
  • Catch can to support long-term intake cleanliness and consistency
  • Read or monitor transmission temp where possible
  • Service gearbox fluid appropriately for towing duty

If you want a tailored recommendation (not generic advice), start here: ECU Dyno Tuning or contact us.

FAQ (SEO-friendly)

Does a diesel towing tune improve fuel economy?

Sometimes. Many towing setups see improved efficiency because the engine works less to maintain speed. But towing economy depends heavily on weight, speed, wind, tyre choice, and gearing.

Do I really need a transmission cooler for towing?

If you tow heavy, tow often, or tow in heat/hills/sand, a transmission cooler is one of the best reliability upgrades you can do. Heat is the main enemy of automatic transmissions.

What’s better for towing: more peak power or more mid-range torque?

Mid-range torque and control. Towing is about holding steady power under load, not chasing a peak number at the top end.

Read More

Off-Road Driving Tips for Diesel 4x4s — Boost Control, Tyres, and Heat

Post by: December 28, 20250 Comments, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Off-Road Driving Tips for Diesel 4x4s — Boost Control, Tyres, and Heat

Off-road, traction and heat management matter more than peak power. The fastest way to break things in a diesel 4×4 is too much throttle, too much boost, and too much wheelspin. A few small changes in technique can save clutches, automatic transmissions, tyres, and driveline parts — especially when touring loaded up.

If you want your vehicle set up for diesel 4×4 touring, off-road reliability, and real-world drivability (not hype), start here: ECU Dyno Tuning or book in / message your rego + mods.

Quick navigation

Tyre pressure basics for off-road driving (general guide)

Tyre pressures are the biggest traction “mod” you have. Lower pressures increase the tyre footprint, reduce wheelspin, and smooth out corrugations. But there’s a trade-off: lower pressures mean more sidewall flex, more heat in the tyre, and more risk if you drive too fast.

  • Sand: lower pressures help the tyre float and reduce digging.
  • Rocky tracks: moderate reductions help grip and reduce tyre damage from sharp hits.
  • Gravel/corrugations: a small reduction often improves ride and reduces skipping.
  • Always re-inflate: before highway speeds and sharp steering inputs.

Practical tip: start with a small reduction, test, then adjust. Avoid high-speed cornering and sudden braking on aired-down tyres.

Related products (touring setup): off-road wheels and off-road exhaust.

Throttle control and boost control off-road

Off-road driving isn’t about big power. It’s about control. The best off-road drivers use smooth inputs so the tyre stays hooked up. In a turbo diesel, that means avoiding sudden throttle stabs that create boost spikes right when traction is limited.

  • Smooth throttle: feed power in gradually to maintain grip.
  • Reduce wheelspin: wheelspin makes heat and breaks parts.
  • Use momentum intelligently: especially in sand, but don’t overdo speed.
  • Let the engine pull: consistent torque beats “on/off” throttle.

If your diesel feels too “snappy” off-road (touchy pedal, surging boost, inconsistent response), a properly calibrated setup makes a big difference. That’s the point of our custom ECU dyno tuning: power you can actually use.

Low range: use it earlier, not later

Low range isn’t just for extreme terrain — it’s for control. Using low range earlier reduces stress on the drivetrain because you don’t need big throttle inputs to move the vehicle. It also improves engine braking on descents and helps the gearbox stay stable.

  • Soft sand + loaded touring rigs: low range often reduces heat and hunting.
  • Steep climbs: low range helps you stay in a controlled RPM window.
  • Technical sections: crawl with torque, not speed.

Heat management off-road (the silent killer)

Off-road driving can create sustained load at low road speed — which is the perfect recipe for heat build-up. Long soft-sand pulls, towing in sand, and slow climbs are where temps climb fast.

What to watch

  • Coolant temp: if it climbs and stays up, back off and improve airflow.
  • Transmission temp (if available): autos hate heat. Hunting and converter slip makes it worse.
  • Power drop / lazy response: can be heat soak or airflow restriction.

Heat management habits that work

  • Take breaks: if temps are rising, stop early and let it cool.
  • Keep airflow up: on climbs, steady speed often beats constant throttle stabbing.
  • Clear debris: mud/grass seeds blocking intercooler and radiator kills cooling.
  • Listen for boost leaks: under load is when they show up first.

If you’re touring a lot, airflow and cooling upgrades matter: diesel intercooler kits | intercooler hoses | example: Ranger/Everest 3.2 intercooler upgrade.

Touring upgrades that help off-road (and why)

The right mods don’t just add power — they reduce stress and keep the setup consistent. Here are upgrades that make sense for off-road touring diesels:

1) Transmission cooler (control heat in autos)

If you do slow sand, towing, or hilly tracks, a transmission cooler is one of the most practical reliability upgrades. It helps keep transmission fluid temps under control when the torque converter is working hard.

Browse: heavy duty transmission coolers | transmission cooler upgrades | touring transmission

2) Catch can (cleaner intake over time)

A catch can helps reduce oil vapour contamination entering the intake. For touring vehicles that live under load and heat, keeping the intake path cleaner helps long-term consistency and reduces sludge build-up in intercooler piping.

Browse: catch can kits

3) Snorkel (dust + cleaner intake air for touring)

For dusty touring routes, snorkels can help with cleaner air intake placement and water crossing margin (done properly).

Browse: Safari snorkels

4) Touring-focused parts and setups

If you’re building a reliable touring rig, start here: touring performance.

Pre-trip checklist (simple, effective)

  • Set tyre pressures for the terrain, and pack a compressor for reinflation
  • Check intercooler/radiator are clear (no mud, grass seeds, debris)
  • Scan for boost leaks and check hoses/clamps
  • If auto: watch transmission temp if your vehicle provides it
  • Use low range early for control and reduced drivetrain stress

Want us to check your setup before a trip? Book in and we’ll go over it properly.

FAQ

What tyre pressure should I run off-road?

It depends on vehicle weight, tyre construction, wheel setup, terrain, and speed. Start with a small reduction, test traction and ride, then adjust. Reinflate before highway speeds.

Why does my diesel feel hotter in sand?

Soft sand creates high load at low road speed

Read More

Diesel Maintenance That Actually Matters — What We Check (and Why)

Post by: December 20, 20250 Comments, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Diesel Maintenance That Actually Matters — What We Check (and Why)

Most diesel problems don’t “just happen” — they build up quietly. A slightly restricted fuel filter, a small boost leak, a weak battery, old coolant, or the wrong oil spec
can turn into hard starting, limp mode, overheating, turbo issues, injector problems, and transmissions that hunt or shudder under load.

This guide is a real-world checklist of diesel maintenance that prevents expensive failures. If you want a reliable ute or 4WD for towing, touring, and daily driving,
this is the stuff that matters.

Jump to

Why diesel issues “come out of nowhere”

Modern diesel engines are efficient, but they’re also sensitive. Small problems create heat, restriction, and low voltage — and those three things trigger most diesel breakdowns.
If you want long-term reliability, focus on:

  • Correct fluids (oil spec and coolant condition)
  • Clean air + clean fuel (filters, leaks, and restriction)
  • Stable voltage (battery and charging system)
  • Heat control (cooling system and transmission temps — especially when towing)
  • Early fault detection (diagnostic scan before it becomes a failure)

If you’re chasing reliability and drivability, a preventative check often saves more money than another random part.
If you want us to look it over properly, book here:
Contact SC Diesel Tuning.

High-value checks (the stuff that prevents expensive repairs)

These are the checks that actually catch diesel issues early. This is where most “quick services” cut corners.

1) Correct oil spec (not “any diesel oil”)

Oil spec matters — especially on modern diesels with emissions systems and tight tolerances. The wrong oil can accelerate wear, contribute to soot loading, and shorten component life.
We confirm the right spec, not just the right viscosity.

2) Fuel filter condition + service interval

A restricted fuel filter can cause low rail pressure, hesitation, hard starts, and poor performance. It’s one of the cheapest parts that can prevent one of the most expensive outcomes.
If you’re unsure when it was last done, it’s due.

3) Air filter + intake restrictions

Airflow problems show up as smoke, sluggish response, higher EGTs, and poor economy. We check the air filter, intake path, and any signs of restriction.

4) Boost leaks (intercooler hoses + clamps + joins)

Boost leaks are common and they’re sneaky. A small leak can make the turbo work harder, increase exhaust temps, and make the vehicle feel “lazy”.
We look for oil misting, loose clamps, split hoses, and poor joins.

5) Cooling system health (coolant condition + pressure control)

Overheating events often start with something simple: weak cap, small leak, tired hoses, contaminated coolant, or a system that can’t hold pressure.
We check coolant condition and look for early signs of pressure issues before it becomes a tow truck situation.

6) Battery health + charging system (modern diesels are voltage-sensitive)

Low voltage causes weird faults: random warning lights, sensor codes, poor starts, and modules dropping out. We check battery health and charging performance because voltage stability is reliability.

7) Diagnostic scan (faults you can’t see yet)

Even if there’s no light on the dash, stored faults can show early warning signs. A scan helps catch issues while they’re still cheap to fix.
If you need a full vehicle condition report, we also do inspections:
Vehicle Inspection Reports.

Service intervals that actually make sense

Intervals depend on how you use the vehicle. A diesel that tows, idles, and runs short trips needs more attention than a highway commuter.
Here’s a practical baseline:

  • Engine oil + filter: follow the correct spec and don’t stretch intervals if you tow or do short trips.
  • Fuel filter: do it on time — earlier if you travel remote or suspect bad fuel.
  • Air filter: more often if you’re off-road, on dirt, or following convoys.
  • Coolant: check condition regularly; flush/replace to schedule (or sooner if contaminated).
  • Transmission service: towing shortens the safe interval. Heat kills transmissions.

Want it done properly (not rushed)? Book a logbook service or general service:
Book with SC Diesel Tuning.

If you tow: the diesel towing maintenance checklist

Towing increases heat and load across the entire vehicle. This is where maintenance pays for itself.
If you tow regularly (or you’re planning a big trip), focus on:

  • Transmission service intervals: towing accelerates fluid degradation and heat cycles.
  • Cooling system condition: radiator efficiency, coolant quality, hoses, caps, and pressure control.
  • Brakes: pads/rotors wear faster when towing — check before they’re cooked.
  • Tyres: towing load + heat = faster wear; correct pressures matter.
  • Boost leak + intake health: long pulls expose airflow and leak issues fast.

If you tow and you’re considering tuning, read this:
Towing with a Tuned Diesel — What Changes, What to Watch.

Warning signs to never ignore

  • Hard starting, slow crank, or intermittent electrical faults (often battery/charging related)
  • Gearbox hunting, shudder, flaring, or harsh shifts (especially when towing)
  • Coolant loss, pressurising, or inconsistent operating temps
  • Sudden fuel use increase, smoke, or loss of throttle response
  • Whistling / whooshing noises or oil mist around intercooler hoses (classic boost leak signs)

If any of the above sounds familiar, don’t wait for it to become expensive. Book a diagnostic or preventative check:
Contact us.

Preventative check: what you actually get

A proper preventative check is designed to catch issues early and give you a clear plan. Depending on your vehicle and symptoms, we focus on:

  • Service history review (oil spec, filter intervals, known weak points)
  • Fluid condition checks (engine oil, coolant, transmission where applicable)
  • Fuel + air system checks (filters, restrictions, intake leaks)
  • Boost leak inspection (hoses, clamps, intercooler joins)
  • Battery + charging test (voltage stability)
  • Diagnostic scan for stored faults and early warning signs

If you’re also chasing better drivability and towing performance, see:
ECU Dyno Tuning.

FAQ: Diesel maintenance, servicing, and reliability

How often should a diesel be serviced?

It depends on use. If you tow, do short trips, idle a lot, or drive in hot/dusty conditions, you should service more often than a light-use highway vehicle.

Is a fuel filter really that important?

Yes. It’s cheap insurance. A restricted fuel filter can create rail pressure issues, poor running, and hard starts — and it can stress expensive fuel system components.

Why does my diesel throw random faults sometimes?

Voltage. Modern diesels are voltage-sensitive. A weak battery or charging issue can cause modules and sensors to misbehave, even if the engine itself is fine.

What’s the best “preventative” maintenance before a big tow trip?

Cooling system health, transmission condition, fuel/air filters, and a diagnostic scan. Those four catch most trip-ending problems early.

Need a logbook service or a preventative diesel check?

If you want your diesel to last, maintenance has to be more than a stamp. Book a proper service or preventative inspection and we’ll tell you what’s worth doing now vs what can wait.

Book a service / inspection here

For full terms, see:
Terms & Conditions.

Read More

Lift Kits in QLD — The Practical Do's and Don'ts (Keeping It Legal)

Post by: December 15, 20250 Comments, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Lift Kits in QLD — The Practical Do’s and Don’ts (Keeping It Legal)

A lift can improve clearance and capability, but it can also create insurance and compliance headaches if it’s done wrong. This is a practical checklist to keep your build sensible, drivable, and aligned with Queensland’s LS9/LS10 framework.

Important: This is general information only. Requirements can vary depending on your exact vehicle category, ESC fitment, parts used, and how the lift is achieved. If you’re unsure, get advice before spending money.

Need help now? Start here: Queensland Modification Plates (Mod Plate Service) or Contact us with your vehicle + intended tyre size.

LS9 vs LS10 — what’s the difference?

  • LS9 (Design Certification): the engineering/design package that sets out how the lift is to be done and what testing/evidence is required.
  • LS10 (Modification Certification): the actual inspection/certification that your vehicle was modified exactly to the LS9 design and meets the checks.

If your lift needs certification, the LS10 signatory is typically certifying the vehicle against an approved LS9 design package.

Step 1 — Work out what “type” of lift you’re building

Minor (usually tyres/rims within allowed options)

If the tyre/rim change is permitted by the original manufacturer or otherwise permitted without certification, it’s typically treated as a minor modification.

Basic modification (no certification required — but still must be done properly)

  • Up to 50mm lift from suspension, and/or
  • Up to 25mm lift from tyres (that’s 50mm increase in tyre diameter), and
  • Up to 75mm total combined lift

Even if you don’t need a mod plate under the basic limits, you still need to build it correctly: alignment, brakes, guards, speedo and safe handling matter.

Complex modification (certification required under LS9 + LS10)

  • Up to 100mm lift from suspension
  • Up to 25mm lift from tyres (max 50mm increase in tyre diameter)
  • Up to 50mm body blocks
  • Up to 150mm total combined lift

Body block rule: if the suspension lift exceeds 75mm, the allowable body block lift reduces (often to 25mm depending on the design).

Step 2 — The limits that catch people out

Tyres: diameter vs “lift”

Tyre diameter increase is not the same as ride height increase. A 50mm increase in tyre diameter only gives you 25mm of ride height.

Wheel track, tyre width, and guards

  • Wheel track increase is limited (and must stay sensible for stability).
  • Tyres can’t be wildly wider than what the manufacturer offered.
  • Wheels/tyres must remain covered by guards/flares and have clearance at straight-ahead.

If you’re chasing tyre size, plan this first. Tyre size drives everything else: clearance, gearing, speedo accuracy, braking feel, and handling.

Step 3 — Stability is the real pass/fail

Lane Change Test (LT2)

For certified LS9 designs, the vehicle must be able to safely negotiate the lane change test (LT2). The headline “150mm max” only works if the vehicle still handles safely.

ESC (Electronic Stability Control)

If your vehicle has ESC, it must continue to function as intended after the lift. Evidence is required and must be retained by the certifier (e.g. manufacturer approval, recalibration, or testing evidence).

Before you lift: the practical checklist (do this, or expect regret)

1) Decide your tyre size first

  • Pick the tyre diameter you actually want (exact size).
  • Work backwards to the minimum lift required.
  • Confirm guard coverage and clearance at full lock and full travel.

2) Pick a suspension kit that suits the job (touring/towing/load)

Examples (popular platforms): Outback Armour Ranger PX2 | Outback Armour Ranger PX3

3) Alignment and caster correction are not optional

  • Poor caster = wandering steering, unstable braking, bad highway manners.
  • Bad alignment = tyre wear and sketchy handling.
  • Lift + bigger tyres magnify worn bushes/ball joints.

4) Don’t ignore the boring stuff (it’s what fails inspections)

  • Brake hoses, ABS wiring, driveline angles, spline engagement and CV travel must remain within safe limits.
  • Headlight aim/height and wheel guards must still comply.
  • Speedo accuracy must be considered with tyre changes.

5) Keep documentation

  • Parts invoices and specs
  • Install receipts
  • Wheel/tyre specs
  • Any ESC evidence required

Common mistakes (what causes compliance pain)

  • Mixing parts with no plan: cheap “stacked” lifts often drive terribly and create stability issues.
  • Tyres too large without supporting changes: clearance, speedo, braking and steering get worse fast.
  • No alignment/caster correction: then blaming the kit for poor drivability.
  • Ignoring stability/ESC: modern vehicles need evidence and safe handling, not just height.

Need guidance?

If you’re unsure where your build sits (basic vs complex), send us:

  • Vehicle make/model/year
  • Whether it has ESC
  • Intended tyre size (exact)
  • Planned suspension lift amount
  • Any body blocks planned

Contact us here: https://scdieseltuning.com.au/contact/

If you want a pre-check before certification day: Vehicle Inspection Reports

General information only. Confirm your specific setup and certification pathway before proceeding.

Read More

Dyno Numbers Explained — Why Results Vary (and How to Compare Properly)

Post by: December 10, 20250 Comments, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Dyno Numbers Explained — Why Results Vary (and How to Compare Properly)

If you’ve ever searched “dyno numbers explained” or wondered why dyno results vary, you’re not alone. Dynos are a measurement tool — not an internet scoreboard. The real value is using the dyno to compare changes on the same vehicle, on the same dyno, in similar conditions.

At SC Diesel Tuning, we use our dyno to establish a true baseline, validate improvements, and show the full power and torque curve (what you actually feel on the road). If you’re chasing repeatable data or planning mods, start with a baseline on our ECU Dyno Tuning process and book via Contact / Appointments.

What a dyno measures (and what it doesn’t)

A chassis dyno typically measures power and torque at the wheels (or hubs), which means the result is influenced by more than just the engine. That’s why two dyno sheets from different shops can show different numbers even if the vehicle is unchanged.

  • Good use: baseline vs after mods/tune on the same dyno.
  • Bad use: comparing your sheet to someone else’s from a different dyno, different day, different setup.

Why dyno results vary

1) Dyno type and configuration

Different dynos apply load differently and can be configured in different ways (ramp rates, smoothing, load control). Even a small change in setup can move the final number.

2) Correction factors (SAE vs STD vs others)

Most dynos apply “correction” to normalise results for air density (temperature, pressure, humidity). Depending on the standard used, corrected numbers can read higher or lower.

  • SAE vs STD can produce noticeably different figures.
  • “Uncorrected” runs reflect the day’s conditions (hot day = usually lower power).

External reading (if you want to go deep): SAE vs STD correction factors explained, how dyno correction works (temp/pressure/humidity), HP Academy discussion on dyno correction.

3) Tyres, tyre pressure, and strapping (roller dynos)

On roller dynos, tyres become part of the measurement system. Tyre pressure, tyre temperature, wheel slip, and strap tension can all change the reading.

  • Higher torque diesels can highlight slip/strap effects more than you’d expect.
  • Same tyre pressure + same strap method = more repeatable data.

4) Ambient temps and heat soak

Hot conditions and back-to-back runs can cause heat soak. As intake temps rise, power often drops and the ECU may reduce output to protect the engine. That’s why “cool morning” and “hot afternoon” results can look like different vehicles.

5) Gear selection and transmission behaviour

Gear choice changes load and acceleration rate. Autos/DSGs also behave differently as temps rise (converter slip, shifting strategy, torque limits). For apples-to-apples comparisons, the gear and procedure must stay consistent.

6) Vehicle condition

A dyno is brutally honest. Boost leaks, dirty sensors, blocked filters, DPF restriction, or cooling issues can all show up as inconsistent results.

How to compare dyno runs properly (the rules)

  • Same dyno, same operator (ideal).
  • Same tyres and pressures (roller dyno) + same strap method.
  • Same gear and same test procedure.
  • Similar engine / intake temps (don’t compare a heat-soaked run to a cool first pull).
  • Compare the whole curve, not just the peak number.

Peak numbers vs the curve (what actually matters)

Peak power makes a good screenshot. The power and torque curve is what you feel: mid-range pull, response, and how well it holds power under load (especially for towing).

Related reading: Towing with a tuned diesel — what changes & what to watch.

Want a real baseline you can trust?

If you want consistent data (before mods, after mods, or just to know where you’re starting), book in for a baseline and verification runs. We aim for repeatable results and a proper comparison — not a one-and-done hero pull.

Book a Dyno Session / Get a Quote

FAQ

Why is my dyno number lower than my mate’s?

Because you’re almost certainly not comparing the same dyno, settings, temps, tyres, or procedure. Use the dyno to compare changes on the same setup.

Is a hub dyno “more accurate” than a roller dyno?

Hub setups can be more repeatable because they remove tyre variables, but the key is still consistent setup and procedure.

Should I compare peak power or the curve?

The curve. Especially on diesels, the mid-range and torque delivery matter more than a headline peak number.

Read More
x